Note: I have provided instructions for the easiest way
to put up your single attached carport without having special jack
stands that most professional installers use. You should be able
to put this cover up in one day with just yourself and one helper.
To avoid measuring mistakes, I suggest fitting the gutter framework
put in place to get proper measurements for digging your post holes.
These installation instructions refer to installing a 10' x 20'
aluminum carport, attached on the 10' width to a house eave with
a 1' slope down the 20' length. No beam is required on the posts
for covers up to a 12' width in most areas. If you have any questions,
before you begin your installation.
||Dry Fit Gutter Fascia together
with outside corners
- IMPORTANT: do not caulk the outside corners to the
gutter fascia at this time. (this will be taken apart later)
- Slide the corner piece onto one of the gutter fascia pieces and screw
together with sheet metal screws.
- Slide another gutter fascia piece into the other end of the corner
piece and screw down.
- Continue until all 4 gutter fascia pieces are joined together with
the 4 outside corner pieces.
|Place gutter / fascia in place,
square and mark for post holes
- Position your frame exactly where it will be installed. (if
attaching to house eave remember to account for the distance
the eave is from the house wall when laying out your framework
on the ground)
- Square your frame by measuring diagonaly from corner to corner.
Adjust frame until measurements are equal.
- It may be helpful to use a large framing square to double
check the corners for square.
- Measure 4' back from each short end and mark the ground,
and the frame. This is where you will dig your post holes and
attach your post brackets.
- Take the fascia framework apart and place to the side
- Dig the post
- All holes should be at least 12in. in diameter and 18 inch
deep (or to frost depth). (Local code requirements may be different....
if local code requires other measurements, follow their specifications.)
CAUTION: Do not put concrete in holes at this
time. DO NOT INSTALL POSTS ON TOP OF A SLAB. ( if the posts
have to be set through a concrete or other type of slab that
is already in place, the surface of the slab will have to be
broken at the 4 post hole locations. Post holes can then be
dug as above.)
||Attach two Outside
corners to Back Gutter Fascia
- Find where the rafters (eave attachment*) or studs (wall attachment)
are located on the house.
- Mark on the back fascia where the attachment points are and
drill holes in the fascia for the attachment screws (wood) or
drive pins (masonary). Your back fascia should attach to the
house at least every 24".
- Caulk outside corner piece as shown (only caulk the side of
the corner piece you will be attaching to the back fascia for
now). Slide the corner piece onto the back fascia and screw together
with sheet metal screws in pre-punched holes. Repeat for other
side of back fascia
- Attach the other two outside corners to the other 10' gutter
fascia. (no need to drill holes in this one)
*(for eaves with a backward slope, you may need to cut
an angle out of a 2x4 and screw to your eave to give
you a flat mounting serface.)
||Mark Fascia for Panel Installation
- V Panel, W Panel and Flat Panel are positioned and installed
in the same manner
- Place marks on the side fascia in the proper panel
increments to keep from misaligning panels - an extra inch
is included on the first mark to allow for the side fascia.
(24" panel installation shown)
|Install the colum brackets to
the underside of long fascia where the posts will go. (use the marks
you made when measuring for the post
Attach the gutter
fascia to the eave or to a wall.
- Mark on the back fascia where the attachment points are and
drill holes in the fascia for the attachment lag bolts (wood)
or drive pins (masonary). Your back fascia should attach to
the house at least every 24".
- Run two beads of caulk along the back surface of the gutter
fascia where it will meet the existing building or fascia board.
- If attaching to a masonary wall, use two 1/4" diameter
masonry anchors every 12" on center. (Special fasteners
for attaching to brick or other non-wood surfaces are not included
should be purchased locally. )
- Raise the fascia to the attachment point and fasten one end
to the house. (Make sure screws go into rafters or studs at
least 1 1/2")
- Place a long level in the center of the fascia, raise the
end not fastened until it is level then fasten to house.
- Continue fastening to every rafter, stud or every 12" OC.
Eave Attachment image
Wall Attachment image
Home Attachment image
||Cut post & put up fascia frame
- Have your helper hold one post in the post hole farthest
from the house.
- Plumb and level post and hold
- Run a string line from top of gutter lip to post and mark
post where line is level.
- Measure down 1' from your mark and cut post (we recommend
the post height be no shorter than 7')
(there are many ways
to get this measurement, use any way you are comfortable with)
- Note: Cutting post - Our installers use
a plywood blade turned backwards on circular saw. Be sure to
have eye protection, long sleeves and gloves as the debris
coming off the post will be hot and sharp.
- Repeat and cut the other post using the opposite post hole
Put up fascia gutter frame
- Caulk outside corner on left side of gutter fascia (A)
- Put post in post hole and attach gutter fascia (B) to (A) and
- Brace with temporary supports or have a helper hold post.
- Caulk oustide corner on right side of gutter fascia (A)
- Put post in post hole and attach gutter fascia (C) to (A) and
- Brace with temporary supports or have a another helper hold
- Caulk both outside corners on gutter fascia (D)
- Attach (D) to (B) and (C)
- Check level across the (D)
- Adjust post as neccessary to level (be sure to leave about
1' drop from (A) to (D)
- Measure and cut the two back post and attach to post brackets
- Temporarily brace as needed to make framework stable for panel
- (image at right is animated showing the steps above - click
here for all steps in one )
Install roof panels
- With lock side of panel facing back fascia (A in previous diagram),
drop end of first panel into fascia (A) and slide in to stop.
- Lower Panel (B) onto lip of opposite fascia.
- Move panel (C) so that front end of panel hangs over the inside
lip of side fascia (this allows water to run into the side
- Move panel (D) so that female side of lock is against wall
of fascia (see panel to gutter diagram).
- Attach panel with the self tapping screws to side fascias and
back fascia.Leave off the last screw attaching the
lock to the fascia to make it easier to install the
next panel. (see diagrams on left)
- Once your first panel is attached place your second panel into
- Continue installing roof panels - locking the panels into place
- use the marks you made earlier to line
so you do not get off on the spacing. Panel
lock and attachment diagrams
- Important: After placing each panel into position
to lock with previousely laid panel, check to be sure the panel
ends are even with each other. After the panels have been locked
together it is difficult to slide the locked panels for adjustment,
- V and W panels usually snap together by pushing down the female
onto the male lock.
- Flat panels: position panel in place to the installed panel.
Raise free end up and so the female lock fits into the male lock.
Lower panel into place and attach.
- Use your marks to align panel and attach panels together and
- Repeat procedure until all panels have been installed. (last
panel may have to be trimmed to size depending on the width of
- Note: These are general installation guidelines
for locking the panels into place and may not be the exact procedure
for installing the panels on your patio cover.
Level posts - cement - attach scuppers
- Re-check Level and plumb on posts and cover - adjust as needed.
- Once you cover is level and posts are plumb, mix cement and
pour into post holes.
- Drill holes in front fascia where you scuppers or downspouts
are going to be attached. (a hole saw works well for this)
- Attach scuppers to underside of front gutter or run downspouts
from front gutter back to posts.
- Flashing (purchase at local hardware store)
and caulking is required at the attachment points to prevent
at gutter and house wall.
That's it - YOU ARE DONE! Pick
up your tools and any screws you mave have dropped, and pop the
top on a cold
one to celebrate a job well done!
(free standing single carport shown)